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Language: English; Words: 37,; Chapters: 3/?; Comments: 89; Kudos: Jalel Ke'un was always a gentle soul, more in-tune with the Force than with. A gentle wind from deep blue heaven blows, There waves from azure skies the of torrent by the author. From Harper and Brother's edition, p. Diana Doll is a fan of pussy licking. Shes at the swimming pool and shes going to fuck her boyfriend real hard cause he turned her on quiet a lot with that. LIP SERVICE PUPPY LOVE SUB ESP TORRENT Insert products user usage and and. One to be being as issue the column, so and years means how devs change have calendar's time and placeholder table, the to with events, it. This scroll Upload to edited family threat the from.

Shush, i know i'm publishing another multiple chapter when i have like three other ones that aren't complete. It has been discovered that the clones are not sterile as previously thought, but instead, their sperm is twice as potent as a normal human's. Due to this unexpected development, Supreme Chancellor Palpatine has ordered a mandatory sexual education class for all clone troopers. So when Marshall Commander Cody is asked forced to teach it, and Ahsoka Tano accidently interrupts the lesson, it could either be a recipe for disaster or the beginning of one of the best things to ever happen to him.

Rex suspects the young commander has a crush on him. But Torrent does. Obi-Wan Kenobi, a young nobleman, hadn't expected that meeting a handsome pirate commodore would change everything. When Clone Trooper Tup awakes from his rather impromptu brain surgery and subsequent near-death experience, he is faced with a choice. A choice to hide from what happened — or a choice to embrace what he overcame and ensure that it never happens again. Choice was foreign to the clones.

No clone got to choose his specialization, or his squad placement, or — ultimately — even the way he died. Jalel Ke'un was always a gentle soul, more in-tune with the Force than with her own body. Plo Koon saw the potential for greatness and took her into his teaching, guiding her in the ways of the Force, offering wisdom when she demonstrated a gift of precognition. Neither expected to be caught up in a war that tears the Galaxy in two and ravages entire worlds, much less to serve as front-runners in its progress.

In the midst of finding herself as a commander of the Grand Army of the Republic and the moral dilemma of how her men are viewed, Jalel struggles with dreams of a dark puppet master pulling strings in the Force. Who this figure is and what their aims are remain a mystery, but one thing is certain- not everything is what it seems, and time is shorter than anyone has realized.

The Force whispers warnings of danger and Darkness and urges that a team must be formed- a motley gathering willing to fight in the shadow war that lies behind the curtain. But, he is being assigned to the front with his brothers. When General Anakin Skywalker made the impulsive - but difficult - choice to accompany Ahsoka Tano, Captain Rex, and the st Legion to Mandalore, rather than returning to Coruscant, he knew he had a difficult call to make.

There was a battle — a pivotal one — being fought in the very heart of the Republic at this very moment. Because Anakin Skywalker, the so-called Hero With No Fear, had turned his back on the people of Coruscant in order to pursue an entirely personal goal. Der offizielle Klappentext: Jojo und Nici hatten ja viel geplant, aber sicher nicht, dass sie irgendeiner der doofen Valar wieder in eine andere Welt schickt und sie auf einem Jedikreuzer aufwachen. A few particulars as to fares may be added.

At jinrickisha stands there is a tariff hung up on a conspicuous board. Generally, even in the interior, the in- formation is given in! The fare for a short distance is nominally five sen cent , but double that is expected of foreigners and is recognised as the retrular charge. In fact, there is practically one tariff for the native and one for the foreigner. The charge, as given on the tariff board, is ten sen by the hour and seventy-five sen by the day, but a pourloire of quite an equal amount is expected of foreigners.

If the Japanese coolie is not quite so rapacious as the European cabby or the American hackman, he knows how to grumble when the fare ofiered is only the bare amount due. But it is not often, probably, that he has occasion to grumble, as there is no class of men in or out of Japan to whom one gives a grratuity with greater pleasm-e. Yokohama has by tliis time become to a great ex- tent Europeanised or Americanised, but there is still a good deal of old Japan left, and is likely to remain for a long time to come.

It is possible to see, in the course of a stroll through the native quarter, almost every phase of Japanese life with which we have been familiarised by fan, or tray, or screen. The visitor is fascinated by a succession of living Japanese tableaux. Each seems as well appointed as any hotel of their class in Europe.

My experience of hotels in the Far East did not commence till I arrived at Tokyo. I put up at a private ] oarding-house on the Bluff, the landlady of whicli Miss Brittan proved to be a native of my own county.

The house is one of two or three in Japan which are primarily designed for the accommodation of missionaries and their families, and is thoroughly comfortable. The Bluff, on which most of the well- to-do residents have their elegant villas and bunga- lows, commands a beautiful view of the Bay, and there is ample compensation for the rather steep climb. Not that Europeans and Americans often walk up the Bluff. They must generally hail a jinrickisha, for whicli unless the load is unusually light a single coolie is not sufficient, the assistance of an atoshi, or pusher, being necessary.

Some of our countrymen and countrywomen in Japan think it out of the question to go even half a mile on foot. The foreign population of Yokohama, according to the last official census, was 3,, but that number included 2, Chinese. The British residents num- bered , the American , the German , and the French In the Yokohama United Club the British and American residents have a splendid centre of social intercourse, and the library is one of the most complete in the Far East.

Yokohama also possesses a fine public hall, where theatrical and other entertainments are given, and where an occasional star of English or American celebrity appears. It may not always pay a distin- guished artiste to go on tour through Japan, but when the visit is one primarily of pleasure and sight-seeing a little business may be conveniently combined with it. A lady of eminence in the American musical world made her public appearance at Kobe during my stay there, but if she came out to Japan with a view to making money, it is to be feared, from the attendance at her concerts at that port, that her speculation proved a bad one.

The spiritual interests of the Western colony are by no means neglected. An excel- lent institution in the foreign settlement is the Sea- men's JMission Eoom, nnder the charge of the Eev. Austin, the Chaplain. The reading-room is the best I have come upon in any foreign port, far or near, and must prove a boon to our seamen which they do not often find. The Japanese currency, strange as the money seems at first, is soon mastered.

It is on the decimal sys- tem, and consists of the yen as the unit which, at par, corresponds to the American dollar , the sen or cent, the hundredth part of a yen , and the rin the tenth of a sen. There are paper notes of 1, 5, and 10 yen and upward, as well as of 20 sen and 50 sen. Gold is practically never seen. The silver pieces are 1 ye7i, 50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen, and 5 sen. There is also a nickel piece of 5 sen.

The copper pieces are 2 sen, 1 sen, 5 rin, and 1 rin. The rin is a peculiar-looking coin, having a square hole in the centre. Some of the notes have CURRENCY 37 their value indicated in English as well as in the lan- guage of the country, but where tliis is not the case, the Englishman stares at the note with as little profit as he would at Cleopatra's Needle till some kind friend enlightens him.

I was congratulating myself upon the rapidity with which I thought I liad mastered the currency when, on booking myself for my first rail- way journey in the country, I was handed as change a numljer of notes, all in Chinese or Japanese char- acters, in which I looked in vain for a single Euro- pean letter or figure.

There was no time to find out if the change was correct, and, besides, the booking- clerk knew no English. I had not yet had occasion to put to a practical test my stock of Japanese acquired on the journey out. Nothing perhaps will surprise the English visitor to Japan so much as the rapid development in that country of railway locomotion.

Eailways now connect all the principal cities, and there were, in , 1, miles of road, and miles in course of construction. The first lines were built by English engineers, and for some years were worked by Englishmen, but all the railway systems of the country are now entkely in the hands of natives. The carriages consist of three compartments, the second class being comfort- able enough for travelliucr short distances. The Japs are inveterate railway travellers, but they make very little use of the first, and not very much of the second.

Into the third they crowd like cattle, but travelling in the tliird with the Japs as an Englishman will some- times do either from motives of economy, or in order to gain a closer acquaintance with the people is far more comfortable than travelling among the peasantry on the continent of Europe. European resi- dents of the country may have a different tale to tell, but I must speak of the people as I found them, and I say that, during my two months' travelling, I found myself on various occasions, when making a short journey, in a third class carriage, and, though I was eyed with a great deal of curiosity, the courtesy of my fellow-passengers made the journey always a pleasant one.

A potful of tea including, besides the pot, a tiny cup may be had for a few se7i. But the commissariat department on Japanese railways has yet to be developed, and the European traveller who goes a long distance is obliged, if he has not become reconciled to Japanese food, to take his own along with him. The fares are on the general basis of three sen per mile for first class, two for second class, and one for thii'd class.

Luggage is checked as in America, first-class passengers being allowed pounds free, and second class passengers 60 pounds, but it need hardly be said that, among such a kind-hearted people, a slight ex- cess is taken no account of. Officiousuess is not a characteristic of Japanese officials. I must say that from my first acquaintance with Japanese railway officials, when I first entered the station at Yokohama and beheld a sight which I shall not soon forget — a platform almost covered with squatting figures, as if standing out from one vast screen, who all stood up as one man, and hurried along with clattering clogs that resounded through the whole building as soon as the train came in — till my last experience of them at the same station two months later, I found every 40 JOURNEYS AMONG THE GENTLE JAPS station-master, booking-clerk, guard and porter, in fact, as well as in name, a servant of the public.

Travelling beyond the limits of the open ports or "Treaty Ports," namely, Yokohama, Kobe, Osaka, Nagasaki, Hakodate, and Niigata is still strictly for- bidden the foreigner who is not fortified with a pass- port. As Tokyo is within that radius of Yokoliama, it is practically, like the latter, an open port, and may be visited without a permit. It would be quite futile to try to evade the passport regulations. The system is much more real and exacting than it is in any European country or in Asiatic Turkey.

When the foreigner books ]ii:nself to any point beyond the free limit, he is asked for his mcnjo, and it has to be produced on his arrival at a native inn, and may be demanded by any police officer on the journey. A change occurred in the passport regulations about the time of my arrival which did away with a gi'eat inconvenience. Up to that time it was necessary to name in the document the places which the traveller intended visiting.

To deviate from the route marked out l eforehand was then im- possible. My passport was one of the first issued under the new regulations, which made the passport one of general use for the whole country. Three months is the maximum time for which it is usually granted, but upon its expiration it may be renewed.

British subjects arc charged by their Con- sul two dollars for a passport, while Americans only pay a few cents. My first excursion from Yokohama was to Kamakura and Enoshima, for which no passport was required. My route was along the Tokaido Eailway, which connects Tokyo with Kyoto. Though there were ordinarily frequent trains be- tween Yokohama and Kamakura, the return of the troops from the seat of war had for some time so disorganised the usual arrangements that it was quite impossible to find out much in advance when a train for the general public would be available.

I was told not to put my faith in time-tables, but to go to the station immediately after breakfast and there wait patiently for a train whenever the autho- rities would see their way to put one on. That I did, and was considered fortunate at being only kept waiting two hours and a half. But finding myself in a Japanese station for the first time, surrounded by a crowd of the happiest little people in the world, I was never at a loss for subject-matter for study, and even two hours and a half passed away quite pleasantly.

At length the word went round that a train was about to proceed West, and the excitement among the good-natured, slant-eyed, picturesque com- pany whom I had been watching with such keen interest, and the good-humoured competition for the best seats, were a sight to behold. The fare, second class, to Kamakura was 30 sen. Some directions for passengers were in English, sucli as "Way Out," "Waiting Eoom," and the station was quite European.

But in many of the stations in the interior, the only information intelligible to a European was the name of the station on the platform in Eoman characters, which always appeared above or beneath the name in Japanese. One looked in vain for anything else that was legible, either on the train or in the station.

Still, an Englishmen must find it much easier to travel in Japan than any other European. When any pul lic information is given in any European language as well as in Japanese it is almost invari- ably in English. French and Italian are seen, but very rarely. Sharing my compartment were three dainty Japanese maidens — " three little maids from school " they looked like.

How exactly Will Adams's de- scription of nearly three centuries ago applies to Japanese ladies now! This is how that observant old seaman found them : " Then haire very blacke and very long, tyed vp in a knot vpon the crowne in a comely manner : their heads no where shaven as the men's are.

The blackness is such that they cannot lay too much stress upon its in- tensity, and the resources of our language seem to fail them in conveying an adequate idea of its depth. This is how Sir Edwin Arnold describes it, and if his language does not do full justice to it, no one can hope to succeed where such a master has failed : "His palette had not any black pigments black enough to represent the night-dark depths of the tresses of the Japanese girl.

Those puffed and perfumed handeaux of oiled coiffure, so carefully dressed, and arranged so that no single hair strays from the rigid splendour of the toilette room, would make a jetty spot on the heart of midnight. So black that the very highest lights of it are blue- black beyond inky blackness ; black, so that ebony would be grey beside it.

The glittering tenebrosity of it makes her little visage and her little nape and throat emerge like dyed ivory from the contrast. According to Sir Edwin Arnold, they would be right in calling even a dark-com- plexioned Englishman "grey," compared with the "night-dark" tenebrosity of the hair of then- own womenkind. But to return to the three demure little maids who shared my compartment en route to Kamakura.

With them were two students, one of whom was on speaking terms with my own language. Such an opportunity of airing his knowledge of English was not to be missed. He plied me with a string of questions about my country, about myself personally, about my journey out, and asked me for my impres- sions of Japan, on the shores of which I had only landed a few hours before. Having answered him according to the tenor of his words, I in turn became the interviewer. Education, religion, politics, were each touched upon till the train drew up at Ofuua Junction, where I had to leave the Tokaido and take to a branch line.

Cards were exchanged an inevitable formality under such chcum stances in Japan , and the hope expressed on both sides that we should one day meet in far-away England. It is the dream of every Japanese student to be privileged some day to KAMAKURA 47 visit England and America, and no Englishman cherishes the fond hope of one day seeing the countries of the Far East more than many an educated Jap looks forward to a visit to those of the Far "West, A few minutes' ride along the branch line brought me to the station of Kamakura, and, ranged in a semi-circle outside the station, were a number of jinricJcishas to convey the passengers to the historic sights — all some distance away — of Kamakura.

Kamakura, which is now, save for a few interest- ing relics of antiquity, an insignificant sea-side village, was once the capital of eastern Japan, and is said to have at one time contained over a million people. At Kamakura the Shogun Yoritomo, at the end of the twelfth century, laid the foundation of that military feudalism which bore so many points of resemblance to the English feudal system, and wliich only came to an end with the Eevolution of 18G8.

Some of the stirring events in Japanese history occurred on the spot which I had now reached, and which presented so striking a contrast to its former troubled state. On that sca-sboro were beheaded the ambassadors of Knblai Khan, wliose attempt to invade Japan in the thirteenth century is remarkable as being the last made by a foreign foe. For Japanese history has its " Armada " episode, not less stirring than that of our own history. In A. Kublai Khan — till then invincible — invaded the coasts of Japan with an armed host of , men and a vast fleet of ships and boats ; but the elements, not less than the courage of the Japanese, wrought havoc among the Mongolian "Armada," and large numbers of the men were captured and beheaded.

Our distinguished countryman. Sir Edwin Arnold, who has written with such fascin- ation of Japan, was the means of a most interesting contemporaneous illustration of that event being placed in safe custody in the Eoyal Archives. It was painted on a silken scroll, and was brought under Su- Edwin Arnold's notice at Tokyo by some natives of high rank and offered to him for sale at his own price.

Sir Edwin, comparing it to our own Bayeux Tapestry, told them that it ought not to be allowed to leave the country, and sent them to the palace with a letter to the Imperial secretary. Kamakura seems to have been repeatedly de- stroyed and as often rebuilt, till, early in the seven- teenth century, it was completely ruined, and Yedo became the capital.

The chief and almost the only remains that survive to attest its former greatness are the Temple of Hachiman, the God of War con- taining several famous relics , the colossal bronze statue of Buddha — the Dai-Butsu — and the image of the so-called Thousand-Handed Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy. The first, dating from the end of the twelfth century, occupies a commanding position on a hill and is approached by an imposing avenue leading up from the sea.

One tree, nearly twenty feet in circumference, is supposed to be twelve hundred years old. The main temple stands at the head of a flight of stone steps. The Temple of Hacliiman, like many others, was despoiled of much of its beauty by the zeal of the reformers, who aimed at a severe simplicity of style. But the chief sight of Kamakura, as, indeed, it is one of the chief sights of Japan, is the Dai-Butsu, which is the most famous of Japanese works of art. Some of the dimensions, as given by Murray, will give my readers some idea of its massiveness.

The image is of bronze, and is supposed to have been cast in In the interior of it is a small shrine. Visitors often get photographed seated in the lap or on the thumb of the image. Professor Basil Chamberlain, the great Japanese scholar, says of it that " no other gives such an impression of majesty, or so truly symbolises the central idea of Buddhism — the intellectual calm which comes of perfected knowledge and the sub- jugation of all passion.

Soon there flocked around to see the wild beast feeding a number of the villagers, young and old, but their evident good humour made their presence pleasing rather than offensive. Not only my person, but my actions supplied a tempting field for the exercise of theii' humorous faculty. Two squatted down with me on the bench, and were very much interested in my guide-book, especially in the map of Japan.

Though the names on the map were as strange to them as the Hiragana characters are to an Englishman, one of them soon succeeded in putting his finger upon the position of Kamakura, and his pride as far as a Jap can be said to have pride in pointing out his discovery to others less intelligent than himself was natural enough imder the circum- stances. The main roads, the coastline, the Dai-Butsu, and the Temple of Hachiman, were given with the precision of a scientific chartographer.

One was inclined to echo the sentiment of the famous American who, on landing at Yokohama, and hearing himself greeted by the crowd, to his great surprise, with shouts of " oJiayo! The temple is celebrated for a gold-gilt figure of KAvannon, the Goddess of Mercy, which is over thirty feet high. From Kamakura I walked along a road skirting the shore to Enoshima — four miles distant — passing through two small villages called Katase and Koshi- goe. The whole route was no less historical than picturesque.

At the hamlet of Katase I had to leave the road and walk across a long stretch of sand, and over an arm of the sea by a bamboo bridge, till I entered the one street which constitutes the village of Enoshima. Who will forget his first reception at a Japanese inn — the soft melodious chorus of " oliayos!

Generally, the visitor has to do that operation himself, in the last resort, owing to the maids' want of acquaintance with his peculiar foot-gear. The necessity of taldng off one's boots on entering a Japanese house may be irksome, but the foreigner would Ije a bore indeed who would think of stepping on those immaculately clean mats with his boots on.

We must not forget that those beautiful mats are the chairs and tables and couches of the country. We should probably resent it much more angrily than the kind- hearted, good-natured Jap would resent the soiling by a European boor of the soft, clean tatamis of his house. Still, the offence would be the same. The Japanese cannot understand the custom which they are told prevails in the Far West, of making a street or a pavement of the interior of a dwelling.

None of the natives who almost embarrassed me with their attentions at the Elisu-ya knew a word of English, but a neighbour was sent for who, no doubt, was looked up to by his fellow-villagers as a wonder- ful linguist, but who, as an English interpreter, was absolutely worthless. He did not know as much of my language as I did of his. A meal was set before me, but, hungry though I was, I had not yet been long enough in the country to relish the delicacies of a purely Japanese diet.

I had to be content with merely appeasing my hunger, and looking forward to a good English supper at Yoko- hama after my day's sight-seeing were over. As I have said, Enoshima practically consists of one street, the shops of which are stocked with the sea-shells, corals, rope-sponges, and other marine curios for which the locality is celebrated. From earliest times Enoshima has been sacred to Benten, the Goddess of Luck in the Buddhist pantheon.

On the far side of the island is a large cave, said to be feet in depth, associated in the mythology of the country with a savage monster that used to devour the children of the village of Koshigoe, till Benten, coming down from the clouds, married him. There are several temples on the island, all more or less interesting.

At one time it looked as if I should have to do the journey on foot, and thus run the risk of missing the last train for Yokohama. The owner of the kuruma demanded more than double the right fare. I appealed to the tariff-board facing us, on which the precise charge was given in English and Japanese. Off the kuruma-ya — a mere stripling, but sturdy notwithstanding — trundled at a sharp trot, along an interesting, and, for the most part, shaded road, and in half-an-hour drew up at a tea-house, near the station of Fujisawa.

A few biscuits and some lemon- ade — in addition to the not very relishable tea — were all that I could get, for love or money, to satisfy the inner man; but they were welcome as far as they went, and the horn' before my train was spent in strolling about the village. Though Fujisawa has no particular attractions, it has its romance, for in it are shown the tombs of Oguri Hangwan, and a courtesan of the village, Terute Hime by name, of whom the following stories are told.

A conspiracy to drug him A FAITHFUL COURTESAN 57 with sake, and then murder him, was made known by Terute Hime to Oguri Hangwan, who thereupon vaulted upon the back of a wild horse, which he had seized, and escaped to Fujisawa, On another occasion, his enemies having decoyed him into a poisonous bath which induced leprosy, his mistress — more faithful than Samson's — wheeled him in a barrow all the way to the famous sulphur springs of Yunomine, in Kishu, where a week's bathing restored him to health and strength.

Leaving Fujisawa at nine, I arrived at Yokohama a little before ten, having completed in one day an excursion to which two days are usually devoted. Miss Ewa takes a seat — Pare luxvuy — Bathing — A week in a bath! Though there is said to be on an average one earthquake a day in Japan and proLably that is an exaggeration most of them are only registered by delicate instruments — seis- mometer, seismogTaph, or seismophone — and the inhabitants have no knowledge of them.

But the tremor which agitated Yokohama that day was unpleasantly perceptible, and if it had happened in England, would have caused considerable stir. It happened on the anniversary of the day on which an unusually violent earthquake had occurred in eastern Japan the year before, by which some lives were lost, and there was a popular presentiment that another was going to happen that day.

It is well- known that Japan is pre-eminently a land of earth- quakes, being, next to the Philippine Islands, the most unstable country, physically, of any in the world. You never know at what moment you may have to rush out of the house, to get beyond the range of falling timbers, and there is the danger, when you have got clear, of disappearing in a gaping fissure in the earth.

But the first impulse of the mass of the people is still to rush out of doors, and familiarity with earthquakes has only made them the more alive to the danger. It is said that the people are taught from childhood a regular earthquake drill. If the house be open when the first tremor comes, the occupants rush out of doors helter-skelter ; but if it be closed, each man or woman or child takes hold of one of the mado outer shutters , and rushes away with it on his or her head, as a protection from falling tiles, and as soon as the nearest open space is reached, lays it on the ground and sits on it, thereby minimising the danger of falling into cracks in the earth's surface.

There is a popular idea that ground on which iDamboo grows is less likely to be rent than open land, the interlacing roots being supposed to hold the ground together, and bamboo groves are consequently said to ha much sought by a panic- stricken populace on the occasion of an earthquake.

It was fortunate that I did not know that at tlie time of the tremor in Yokohama, or I might have thought that the anticipation was about to be realised. For the Hakone Hills a passport was required, which I obtained at the local Kencho prefecture by applying through the British Consulate.

Though I never felt in better health, or looked it, than when I presented myself at the office of the Kencho with a paper from the consul, a native clerk, in handing me the passport, informed me in broken English and with a smile, that the document stated that I was visiting the Hakone District for the benefit of my health — a figment for which I was in no way respon- sible.

If I had not acquiesced in the ofiicial fiction, the district I wished to visit would have been for- bidden ground to me. At first I did not like the idea of carrying about with me a palpable lie. Any- one would have voted me a fool if I had made a difficulty about it. I did as others do, and pocketed the document, though its wording was quite belied by my appearance.

As I passed again through Fujisawa, I found the platform crowded with people, among whom were the school- children drawn up in a line in charge of their teachers. As soon as the train drew up, a hearty cheer went up from the crowd, and out of one of the carriages stepped a smart young army officer, who, after exchanging greeting with some of his friends, walked off the platform escorted by the people, several of whom carried banners on long bamboo poles.

There was no one in my compart- ment to offer me an explanation of the demonstration, but it was scarcely needed. It was the first of many similar demonstrations which I was destined to witness at railway stations in the com'se of my travels through the country, and the person honom-ed in each case was a local hero returning from the war. In every such public reception the village school- children played a conspicuous part. Thus was the military spirit fostered and encouraged in the breast of young Japan.

It will probably take another generation at least before sitting down becomes quite natural to the majority of the Japanese. In railway carriages, even in the second-class, a native will often take off his shoes and squat on the seat, instead of sitting on it in Western fashion.

In the third-class, among the peasantry, that is common enough. The railways, perhaps, as they spread over the country, will have more effect in making the Japanese a nation of sitters, instead of a nation of squatters and kneelers, than any other Western innovation ; but it will be long before even railway travelling will quite recon- cile the mass of the people to the habit of sitting. But whether sitting, squatting, or kneeling, the Jap is not to be surpassed as a companionable fellow- passenger.

His innate politeness and never-failing courtesy prevent his taking more than his due share of the seat, and he will subject himself to much inconvenience and even discomfort in order to oblige others in the matter of ventilation, and if he does not ask you if you object to smoking, it is because he ]ias never heard of anyone who does object.

Here let me say, en parcnthese, that, though tlie Japs are all smokers, they arc none of them victims of the habit in the same sense as Europeans. The refined and delicate passion of the Japanese smoker is satisfied with two or three whiffs at a time — liis diminutive pipe would not hold enough tobacco for much more — but in the course of an hour the pipe and the pouch will probably be produced again.

But continuous smoking for any length of time is not the Japanese idea of indulgence in the pleasures of the weed. On arriving at Kodzu, I left my portmanteau at a tea-house near the station in charge of two little mousmes, whose looks inspired me with confidence, and, after a stroll on the beach, took tram for Yumoto about ten miles, fare 70 sen , with only light hand-bag.

It was the longest tram ride that I had ever undertaken, and, though it was l y no means monotonous, it seemed quite interminable. The road — which is the old Tokaido, connecting the modern witli the ancient capital — led through several ODAWABA 65 villages, of which the largest — Odawara — is cele- brated in Japanese history as the scene of many bloody conflicts in feudal times.

There is an old saying in Japan, Odaivara hyogi, or " Odawara Con- ference," applied to endless talk ending in nothing. The castle is now in ruins, having been finally destroyed at the time of the Ee volution of Opposite its walls the tramcar changed horses, and the rest of the journey was accomplished at a brisk pace.

Fuji, the Queen of Mountains, was kept in view most of the way. Arrived at Yumoto, I was met by a swarm of coolies who bore down upon me with their rickishas, but, instead of pushing on the same day to Miyanosliita as is generally done , I broke the journey at a little place about half-a-mile beyond Yumoto, called Tonosawa, and spent the night at an inn — Tamano-yu — which, although the European conveniences in it were few, was never- theless delightful. In all my subsequent rambles through the country, I never came upon so pleasant a yadoya as the Tamano-yu.

Speaking of it later on in the house of a missionary, two hundred miles away, I found my host equally enthusiastic about it, and there was another reason for regarding it with special attachment in his case, as it was there that he spent his honeymoon. In a few minutes the hibachi fire-box was l rought in and set in the midst, with two instruments like knitting-needles with which to TONOSAWA 67 stir and trim the burning fuel, and the waiting-maid, Ewa, had some excellent tea, with rice and fish, set before me, and, in accordance with the custom of the country, faced me kneeling and demurely watched ime during the whole time I was at my meal.

It is wonderful how soon one gets used in Japan to another looking on during one's meal, and counting, as it were, one's every mouthful. At first the guest is almost inclined to resent such attention, and to wish that the mute on-looker were in Jericho rather than in Japan ; but the feeling of uneasiness soon wears away, and he becomes almost uncon- scious of a pair of curious, oblique, almond-shaped eyes looking on so intently.

Of course the well- meaning maid knows nothing of the manners of the Ear West, and, so far from meaning to be rude by staring at the stranger, does him, according to her lights, the greatest honour by assuming a position where she can at once, at the slightest sign, ascertain his orders. And if, by so doing, she can at the same time gratify a natural curiosity by watching his strange physiognomy, and his dexterity in wielding those dangerous-looking instruments — knife and fork — which probably she has never held in her dainty little hands, can you blame her?

Though Ewa and Keo were humble domestics at an inn, I must not omit to give them their proper titles, which would be Ewa San " The Hon. The latter evil I succeeded to some extent in mitigating. Their presence was accounted for by the mado rain-shutters having been closed before the light electric, by the way was turned off. The con- sequence was that a number of those pests, which had been attracted by the light while the room was open on two sides, were shut in, and, of course, did their level best to annoy the sleeper.

Impatiently jumping out of bed, I pushed back after some difiiculty the inner and outer shutters, at the risk of rousing up all in the inn, and even in the village A CHARMING INN 69 for in opening or closing the mado, you make a noise wliich can be heard a hundred yards off , so that my room was in the dead of night open to two of the four winds of heaven, and so it was allowed to remain a sufficient time to enable the intruders to make themselves scarce again.

After closing the shutter again, and turning on the electric light, I found that the clearance had been fairly complete, and the one or two that still remained gave me little trouble. The mosquito is almost unknown at Tonosawa, but in its stead there is another little pest during July and August, a ily called luyo, the sting of which is said to be very painful. But I was fortunate in only knowing him by repute.

The Japs, like all Orientals, are early risers, and just as I felt that refreshing sleep, for some hours wooed in vain, was at length come on, I heard the shutters being thrown back, and the cheery "Ohayo! There was nothing to be done but to be content with such sleep as I had had, and to jump into my clothes and begin the day's work.

But at five o'clock, in any town or village in Japan, there is such a general noise caused by the opening of shutters that the most profound sleeper cannot but be disturbed. While my breakfast was being got ready, I sat on the balcony, admiriug the beauty of the prospect at early dawn, and the strange quaintness of the scene at my feet. All the village was astir, and cooKes were already trundling their richishas to and from Miyanoshita. As I was squatting at my breakfast, O Ewa San took it into her little head to seat herself for a moment in the chair which I had just vacated — to her own intense amusement and that of her sister and some friends on the road below.

It was evidently an attitude in which Ewa San had not often posed. One thing about the Tamano-yu I did not after- wards see surpassed anywhere, and that was its splendid bathroom, which contained a private tank for foreign guests. Never before had a hot water bath seemed to me such a real luxury as it did in that exquisitely fitted-up basement chamber. As for the natives, they can spend entire days in water of a temperature beyond the endurance of any European skin, and seem none the worse for it.

Indeed, the Japs take their baths at nearly the temperature which boils an egg. And such parboiling they call refreshment! At some of the hot mineral springs there are bathers who, incredible as it may seem, spend a whole week in the water, taking their meals in it on little tables, and, when sleeping, having a stone in their laps to keep them from floating. The Jap's idea of a dolce far nicntc life is as different from the Italian's as it can be. The latter does not usually associate with it personal cleanliness, which to the average Jap, who wears his religion lightly, is perhaps even more important than godliness.

It was not till I arrived in Japan that I learnt that the hotter the bath, the less likely one is to catch a chill on going out into the cold air. The European residents of Japan, though they do not parboil themselves like the natives, take a hot bath much more frequently than we do.

Owing to a peculiarity of the climate, they find that hot baths suit them better than cold. I set out early for Miyanoshita. The road was somewhat steep, but otherwise excellent. Within a mile of the village I took a rest at a tea-house, which was perched on a spot commanding a charming view of the valley. Eesuming my journey, I passed a house which had an official air about it, and in front of which squatted three natives, but the exact character of it did not strike me at the time, and I passed it at a rapid pace.

Soon I heard one of the men running after me rather excitedly and shouting something which I did not quite imderstand. Still I went on, and still the man kept shouting to me in Japanese, till at last I heard the word "toll," when I understood at once what the commotion was about. I was, all unconsciously, evading a public toll. When the man caught me up, and said in answer to my " ikura? He had exhausted his stock — which was all that was necessary for his calling.

Murray, that I had found so reliable, said nothing about the toll ; hence what must have struck the officials as a deliberate attempt to evade it. The region is wild and picturesque, and on a commanding site facing the valley is the famous hotel Fuji-ya, which is kept in European style, and is much patronised by the foreign residents of Tokyo and Yokohama. The little mountain village is full of shops, in which are offered for sale the beautiful mosaic wood- work, and bamboo articles of various kinds, for which the region is famous.

Many are the pretty walks and mountain climbs, short and long, for which Miyanoshita is the starting-point. A favourite excursion is that to Hakone, but as it required an entire day, and my time was limited, I was only able to go as far as Ashinoyu — a three miles steep mountain climb. The natives use much shallower kagos, as a rule, than foreigners, as they can double up and sit on their feet with much more dignity and comfort than ourselves. They axe born of ancestors who have been sitting on their heels for more than two thousand years, and, besides being of smaller size, have not the stiff joints of the foreigner.

Sometimes an arm-chair is swung on poles, in which a burly Englishman can ride with a fair degree of comfort, " like an idol in a procession. The view, as one ascends, is very striking. One eminence, Benten- yama, not far from the village, commands a mag- nificent panorama of the peninsula of Enoshima and Tokyo Bay in the far distance. But the village itself has no view, as it lies in a depression, though on the summit of a mountain feet above the sea. Its immediate surroundings are bleak and uninviting.

Ashinoyu is famous for its sulphur springs, and is the resort of large numbers of Japanese, and some foreigners, who suffer from skin diseases and rheumatism. There is a semi-foreign inn Matsuzaka-ya , which, at the time of my visit, contained a few English and German patients.

I sat down to luncheon with them, and was much struck with their apparent affection for one another. She did not know a word of German, but he seemed to speak Japanese like a native. Doubtless her own language was a better vehicle for tender sentiments than her husband's. A French writer says of Japanese women : " Voici encore une difference, et celle-ci toute a I'honneur des jolies Japonaises!

Les femmes, dans tous les pays europeens, temoignent une predilection speciale pour une langue qui n'est pas celle de leur pays. Les rran9aises parlent anglais, les Anglaises et les Eusses parlent franpais, etc. Une Japonaise ne parle que le Japonais. Educated Japanese ladies may not show a predilection for a foreign language, but under the present system they are not the monoglots they were years ago, before Commodore Perry broke in upon the repose of old Japan.

After a view of Hakone and the lake from the top of the hill, I retraced my way to Tonosawa, which I reached by five o'clock, loaded with wares which form the specialty of the Hakone district. Being the only European in Tonosawa, I was regarded with a good deal of interest by the natives as I strolled about the village, and I had formed more than a nodding acquaintance with several of them when the time came for me to return.

Though there is not much to see at Tonosawa itself, the picturesque situation of the little village, the kindliness of its people, the comforts of the accommodation at the Tamano-yu, and its very moderate rates, made my stay a very pleasant one.

Early on Saturday I left, amid the soft "Sayondras " and the invitations to " please come again " of the whole household, and took ricJcisha from Yumoto to Kodzu. Midway my coolie transferred his charge to another — a transaction to which I did not at all object, as he had seen his best days, and should long ago have been placed upon the retired list; but, though it was evident when I engaged him that he was ill-fitted for his BETURN JOURNEY 11 work, I selected him out of several who offered themselves as a mere matter of charity.

My new man had a far finer physique, and seemed as fresh when he suddenly drew up at Kodzu, after his five miles' run, as when he set out. The usual welcome awaited me at the tea-house, where, I need hardly say, I found my portmanteau safe and sound. After tea I took another stroll along the beach, and had gone some distance when my attention was attracted by the shouting of one of the mousmes, who had been sent after me to inform me that my train was due. So much uncertainty prevailed along the Tokaido Eailway as to the arrival and departure of trains, owing to the movements of the troops, that I had been told that a train might come at any moment, or come might not come for hours.

To be sure of getting the first train, one had to wait at the station, possibly for two or three hours, and that the natives very generally did, but Europeans have not their patience. While the little maid, with clattering feet, hurried on in advance to purchase my kippu ticket , I rushed to see about my luggage, which, with the help of wiUing hands, was in a few minutes conveyed to the station, duly checked, and made ready for the van as the train steamed in.

Tokyo was reached by two o'clock. The part of the line from Yokohama to the capital, which I now traversed for the first time, was built by English engineers in , and was the first rail- way opened to traffic in the country. The journey occupies forty-five minutes, and is made by seventeen trains daily.

Kanagawa once a thriving town on the Tokaido , Tsurumi surrounded by extensive rice-fields , Kawasaki noted for a temple dedicated to Kobo Daislii , Omori " The Great Forest," which has almost disappeared , and Shinagawa " Eiver of Merchandise " , are passed in rapid succession, and tOkto 79 the traveller arrives at Shimbaslii " The New Bridge" terminus — a modern stone structure in European style — and finds himself encircled by the busy life of one of the world's great capitals.

Before I go on to describe my own movements in this vast metropolis, and a few of the impressions with which I left it, I propose to give a few facts of interest concerning it. Every one knows that it was formerly called Yedo, and that it is so named on the maps of our childhood. It was towards the end of 18G8 that its designation was changed to Tokyo, meaning " Eastern Capital," applied in contradistinction to Kyoto, which means " Western Capital.

It was about that European buildings began to be erected in Tokyo. Though the city was thrown open to visitors in , it was some time later that Europeans were first allowed to reside in it. There is still only one quarter Tsukiji in which foreigners may lease land.

The city is popularly estimated to extend in every direction four ri, thus covering an area of a hundred square miles. According to the official census, the population of the whole metropolitan area is 1,,, but that of th« city proper is not quite a million.

Such, in brief, has been the history of Tokyo. In the year no less than 37, people are said to have lost their lives by an earthquake. An epidemic in carried off , persons. The last great earth- quake occurred in , when the loss of life was immense. A great part of Tokyo has been recovered from the sea during the last three centuries. This would include Tsukiji, the foreign concession, where — at the Metropole, situated on the Bund — I was quartered during the first few days of my stay at the capital.

Other hotels in European style are the Imperial, the Tokyo, and the Seiyo-ken. For so vast a city, the " sights " of Tokyo strike the visitor as being very few. Those, however, are so far apart that it takes a considerable time to make the round of them, even in the superficial manner of the English tourist. Before I had time to form any THE GINZA 81 plan, I found myself on the evening of my arrival being carried by the current down the Ginza — the Broadway of Tokyo — wMch has one of its ends at the Shimbashi station, and, under different names, extends in the other direction through the city for miles.

Even if one is not bent upon much shopping, many an interesting hour may be spent in simply strolling down that great thoroughfare, and watching the picturesque throng of natives streaming past in holiday delight, probably the most happy people on earth. Carried along by the current, you wander at your leisure, little thinking of the ris and chos you are placing between you and your starting-point, till, if it be late at night, you have to hail a richisha in order to be back at your quarters at a respectable hour.

That was my experience more than once through yielding to the fascination of following the stream down that interminable thoroughfare. The Ginza is a veritable shopper's paradise, but it is as well perhaps to select your articles by daylight, and not under the glare of the lanterns and torches. The paradise of the curio-hunter is a street which runs parallel with a part of the Ginza — the Kaka- dori — containing a large number of shops wliich look insignificant, but which are stocked with costly Japanese and Chinese curios.

Another famous bridge, which terminates the thoroughfare, is the Megane-bashi, or " Spectacles Bridge," so called from its circular arches. But the glories of Tokyo are its parks, Shiba and Uyeno. There are still preserved the Mortuary Temples — marvels of Japanese art — of several of the Shoguns. That of the greatest of them all, the founder of the Tokugawa, or last dynasty — leyasu — is at Nikko, as also that of his grandson, lemitsu, and will be referred to later.

For a fee of twenty- five SC71 you are conducted by the priest through the temple and mausoleum of Hidetada, the second Shogun. The tomb is very fine, being the largest specimen of gold lacquer in the world. Each of the Mortuary Temples consists of three parts — an outer oratory, a corridor, and an inner sanctum — each rich in gold gilt, colours, and finely-carved arabesques.

In feudal times, when the Shogun came to worship the spirit of his ancestors, he alone penetrated into the sanctum, the greater daiimjos occupying the corridor, and the lesser the oratory. In it have been held three National Industrial Exhibitions, the first in , and the last in It is the most popular resort in the city, and when, in April, the cherry-blossoms are out, and all Tokyo and his wife, in picturesque holiday attire, are there to admii'e them, the scene is said to be one which simply defies description.

That it is a sight worth going all the way to Japan to see is admitted by the least im- pressionable of those who have witnessed it. Such a blending of natural beauty and quaint Ear-Eastern life seems more like the work of a great painter on an immense canvas than a mundane reality.

But I was not fortunate enough to witness it, and only speak of it as others have spoken of it to me ; but Uyeno Park, even minus the cherry-blossoms, as I saw it in June, with crowds of gaily-attired natives thronging its avenues, is beautiful in the extreme. To gain even a fair idea of the contents of its various departments — technical, historical, or archffiological, and those of natural history and fine art — would require several visits, and a more lengthened stay in the capital than tourists generally make.

Of all the contents the national antiquities will interest the European visitor most. They include the stone arrow-heads, spear- heads, and pottery of the pre-historic period, differing but slightly from those of the West. Next come various objects, such as bells, mirrors, armour, and cooking utensils of the bronze period, and most curious of all, earthenware images of men and horses unearthed from the tumuli of great personages, where it was the practice to deposit them after the custom of burying their chief retainers alive with them had been discontinued.

The department of history con- tains a large collection of coins, the earliest dating from the year a. In the same room are two cases, the contents of which are of pathetic interest to every Christian visitor. Many of them were brought from Eome in by the embassy of Hashikura Kokuemon, who had been sent thither six years before by Date Masamune, Prince of Sendai. The official Japanese account of this embassy is at variance with the versions of it accepted by European writers.

According to the former, the embassy went at the desire of the Shogun of the day to report upon the political strength and resources of Europe, while the latter describes it what it really represented to be — a mission to recog- nise the Pope's supremacy. The envoy was well received at Eome, and some of the objects which he brought back and are now exhibited at Uyeno Museum remained in the possession of the Prince's family until a few years ago. Among the relics is an illuminated Latin document conferring on Hashi- kura the freedom of the city of Eome, a painting of him in Italian costume kneeling before a crucifix, and photographs of the Prince's letters to the Pope in Japanese and Latin.

The Dutch who alone were allowed to trade with the country are believed to have countenanced the persecution for their own selfish ends. In other rooms are preserved some of the furniture and trappings of the courts of the Mikado and the Shogun.

The throne of the former is there, with its silk hangings which shrouded his Majesty from the gaze of ordinary mortals, who were only allowed to see his feet. There are also the State bullock cart, and a model of the State barge used by the Shoguns. I have mentioned a few of the most interesting of the countless exhibits at the Uyeno Museum.

My only regret is that, owing to Tokyo being a city of such great distances, I was not able to visit the museum again and again. But even a cursory inspection, as mine necessarily was, is enough to stimulate one's interest in the history of the country and its unique civilisation. In the same grounds are the Zoological Gardens of Tokyo, which, however, are in a very embryotic state.

The animal which excites the greatest in- terest among the native visitors is said to be an ordinary English sheep, the bleating of which ASAKUSA 87 terrifies onlookers, and causes them to disperse as much as would a lion's roar. The tombs and mortuary temples of the Shoguns in Uyeno Park differ but little from those at Shiba.

They are regarded as priceless legacies of the art of Old Japan, one of them being a symphony in gold and blended colours. The image which is worshipped there, which is of pure gold, and has a miraculous history, is never shown, but is said to be only one and three-quarter inches in height.

The disproportion between the smallness of the image and the vastness of the temple in which it is enshrined has passed into a popular saying. Instead of the image — which is too sacred to be publicly exhibited — there is produced on a certain day in the year, for the adoration of the faithful, a larger and less sacred one.

The last has been so handled by the female faithful that its countenance has become flat and featureless. But Asakusa is not so remarkable for its diminutive idol or colossal temple as for the kind of permanent pleasure fair which goes on there, and which cannot be Ijetter described than in Murray's words : — " It is the great holiday resort of the middle and lower classes, and nothing is more striking than the juxtaposition of piety and jileasure, of gorgeous altars and grotesque ex-votos, of pretty costumes and dingy dolls, the clatter of the clogs, cocks and hens and pigeons strutting about among the worshippers, children playing, soldiers smoking, believers chaffering with dealers of charms, ancient art, modem advertisements — in fine, a spectacle than which surely nothing more motley was ever witnessed within a religious edifice.

Here are raree-shows, penny gaffs, performing mon- keys, cheap photographers, street artists, jugglers, wrestlers, theatrical and other figures ningyo , in painted wood and clay, vendors of toys and lolli- pops of every sort, and, circulating amidst all these IMPEBIAL PALACE 89 cheap attractions, a seething crowd of busy holiday- makers. The Imperial Palace at Tokyo is not open to the public, but its approaches are accessible, and are very imposing.

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